Puzzle Ball Pattern

I found this on "Look at What I Made" http://www.lookatwhatimade.net/crafts/yarn/crochet/free-crochet-patterns/crochet-amish-puzzle-ball/

I thought this was pretty cool.  And would like to make one some time.

Let me introduce you to my Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball.  I can hype it up and tell you that your kids will have endless hours of fun playing with this puzzle ball, but the truth is that I have a lot more fun with this puzzle ball than my kids do (although they love it).

The minute someone walks into my house I practically force it on them!  And what fun it is watching people try to assemble it.  Of course it only takes them a little while to figure it out, because it IS pretty simple.  But doesn’t it look cute?  And as a ball it kicks some serious crochet ass!

The chunky design means that it is super easy for little hands to grab hold of.  And the million colour possibilities make it a treat for little eyes and inquisitive minds.

Now before we go any further.  If you are at all concerned about the apparent amount of sewing involved, let me put your mind at ease.     All the segments are crocheted together at the end and the tails of yarn are enclosed INSIDE the ball – if you follow my advice, leaving you with 3 tiny tails of yarn to sew away.  That’s right, ladies!  3 itty bitty bouts of sewing.  I think that’s pretty awesome!

 

How does the Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball work?

The ball comes apart into three separate “rings/segments” (each containing four wedges) which then have to be re-assembled to form the ball.

Be warned that this is one of those mind-numbing projects.

You will need to make 12 of the same thing.  So I would advise resigning this particular project to evening tv time (if you indulge) and car trips.

(Update 3/3/13:  It takes me about 3 lazy hours to make a Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball from scratch, but I have made a few!!)

Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball Pattern

Dedri Uys ©2011.  All Rights Reserved.

This pattern is not currently available as a PDF.  I am in the process of updating my older pattern PDF’s.

Size

• If you prefer to use double knit yarn and a 4 mm hook, the ball will be roughly 13 cm in diameter. That is about 5”.
• If you use worsted weight yarn and a 4 mm hook, the ball will be about 15 cm in diameter. That is about 6”.

Materials

Update:  I have recently started working with worsted weight yarn and much prefer the denser structure obtained when using worsted weight yarn.  The ball below is made with the materials listed below, but I suggest you use worsted weight yarn instead of double knit!  If you do use worsted weight, you will need about 220 meters.

• 4 mm Crochet hook (US G/6  UK 8)
• Double knit yarn (light worsted weight/#3) in contrasting colours –  about 120 m for the wedges, 45 m for the lids and 30 m for crocheting the lids to the wedges.
• OR Worsted weight yarn (Aran/#4) in contrasting colours – about 140 m for the wedges, 55 m for the lids and 35 m for crocheting the lids to the wedges
• A yarn needle for working away your tails of yarn
• About twice as much stuffing as you think you will need

Abbreviations

US Terminology used
{You can see a US/UK comparison chart for hooks and terminology here.}

Ch	Chain
Sl st	Slip stitch
Sc	Single crochet
Sc inc	Single crochet increase
St/st’s	Stitch/stitches

 

 

 

Additional Notes

The initial ch st’s in each row/round are NOT counted as stitches.

Instructions

Wedges

(Make 12)

These wedges are worked in rows and joined with a seam.  If you would rather make seamless (spiral) wedges, see the instructions for the Star Ball.Ch 2.  Make 3 sc’s in the second ch from the hook.  Ch 1 and turn. (3)

1. Sc inc in each st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (6)
2. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next st) 3 times.  Ch 1 and turn.  (9)
3. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 2 st’s) 3 times.  Ch 1 and turn.  (12)
4. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 3 st’s) 3 times.  Ch 1 and turn.  (15)
5. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 4 st’s) 3 times.  Ch 1 and turn.  (18)
6. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 5 st’s) 3 times.  Ch 1 and turn.  (21)
7. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 6 st’s) 3 times.  Ch 1 and turn.  (24)
8. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 7 st’s) 3 times.  Ch 1 and turn.  (27)
9. (Sc inc in the next st, sc in the next 8 st’s) 3 times.  Ch 1. Do not turn.  (30)

Fold the half-circle in half so that the end containing the hook is closest to you (Photo 2).  Insert your hook into the first row down the side of the resulting wedge (through both layers – see Photo 3)  and make a sc (through both layers)  Make 8 more sc’s, working into each row down the side and through both layers.  Remember to put your initial tail of yarn INSIDE the wedge before closing it completely.  When you get to the end, ch 1 and bind off (Photo 4).
To eliminate the final tail of yarn, insert your hook into one of the stitches at the pointy end of the wedge (from the inside of the wedge to the outside – see Photo 5) and pull the final tail of yarn through to the inside of the wedge (Photo 6).

If you want to, you  can turn the resulting wedge inside-out so that you don’t end up with a seam.  I personally prefer (and recommend) the seam as it helps the Puzzle Ball to interlock better when assembled.

Chain of “lids”

(Make 3)

1. Ch 2.  Sc inc in the second ch from the hook.  Ch 1 and turn.  (2)
2. Sc in each st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (2)
3. Sc inc in each st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (4)
4. Sc in each st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (4)
5. Sc inc in the first st.  Sc in the next 2 st’s.  Sc inc in the last st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (6)
6-9. Sc in each st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (6)
10. Sc2tog, sc in the next 2 st’s, sc2tog.  Ch 1 and turn.  (4)
11. Sc in each st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (4)
12. Sc2tog twice.  Ch 1 and turn.  (2)
13. Sc in each st.  Ch 1 and turn.  (2)
14. Sc2tog.  Do not bind off.
Repeat rows 1 – 14 THREE more times.  This will give you a chain of 4 “lids”.  On the very last “lid” of the chain, ch 1 and bind off.

Hint:  If you are going to use the “lid” colour (so the same colour) to attach the wedges to the lids, don’t bind off.  Just continue with the assembly instructions below.  It just saves having to work away another tail of yarn.

Assembling the segments

Use the yarn you used for the wedges or a third, different colour.  If you are using a new colour, start with a slip knot already on your hook.

You will be attaching 4 wedges to each chain of lids, working up the chain of lids on one side and down the other side, stuffing as you go.  You will be working into each st of the wedge opening and each row of the chain of lids.  See the section below if you are unsure about the placement of the stitches in the rows of the lids.

So, place your first wedge behind the first lid on the right (with the sc seam of the wedge to your right – see Photo 1) and insert your crochet hook through the first st of the chain of “lids” and the first st of the opening of one of the wedges (Photo 2).  If you have turned your wedge inside out, or you have worked it in a spiral, start on any st around the top of the wedge.  Make a sc through both layers.  Make 14 more sc’s, working into each row of the lid and each stitch of the wedge (so both layers).

Join the next wedge to its lid in the same way (Photo 3) and continue until you have attached one side of each of the 4 wedges and lids.

Now you will be “closing” the wedges.  Insert your hook into the same (last) st of the fourth lid and the next st of the fourth wedge and make a sc.  Continue working through both layers as before, making 15 sc’s along the other side of each wedge and lid (Photo 5), and stuffing as you go (see A Word About Stuffing below).

When you reach the last st, of the first wedge, join to the first st with a sl st and bind off.  Use the tail to join the tips of the first and last wedges together (Photo 6).

Alternatively you can sl st them together before binding off, which is what I prefer.  To do that, simply sl st in st’s 16 and 15 of the st’s around the top of the 4th wedge (in that order), so the stitches at the pointy end, and then sl st in the first and second st’s of the first wedge.  Bind off and work away your tails.

You have now completed one segment.  Repeat for the remaining 2 segments.

Having trouble lining up the lids and the wedges?

Although the lids only have 14 rows, there are 15 “holes” along the side of the lid.  This is because the chain st you work the sc inc into in the first row also forms a hole.  So, in essence, you are working into that ch st and then into each of the 14 rows.  I have included a numbered photo below to help explain this.  It is numbered starting from the sc2tog of row 14 ( on the right), where you will start attaching the lid to its wedge, through to the initial ch st of row 1 (on the left), and then back again around the bottom of the lid.  I hope this eliminates a few questions.

 

A word about Stuffing

This ball EATS stuffing! And I have noticed that people tend to think they have overstuffed the ball because the wedges are quite fat and the segments super snug…But the ball will stretch over time and to get the best results you want to stuff it nice and full! If you use too little stuffing the segments won’t sit together as well and the ball is more likely to become lifeless after a lot of playing.   Just don’t stuff it so much that it becomes “holey”.

Building your Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball

When your segments are all nicely stuffed and neatly finished off, use them to build your puzzle ball!
Now, because this is a puzzle, I am not going to explain how you assemble the ball.  But I have included a photo of how the first 2 segments should interlock and a photo of what the ball should look like once assembled.

All you have to do is figure out where the third segment goes.  If you really get stuck, Google it :)

Crochet Amish Puzzle Ball Video Tutorial

by Elizzza from www.knitaholics.com

This video tutorial should answer any questions you may have.  Please note that Elizzza turns her wedges inside out before attaching them to the lids.  I prefer not to turn them inside out.  Keeping the seam on the outside makes it easier to attach the wedges to the lids AND it helps the wedges interlock slightly better when the ball is assembled.

• Part 1
• Part 2
• Part 3

Quilling with Toilet Paper Rolls

I found this on http://suzyssitcom.com/2011/09/feature-friday-faux-brass-wall-clock.html





 Materials:
- inexpensive plastic clock. Could be cool to go around a mirror also.
-30 toilet paper rolls
-cereal box
-hot glue
-antique brass metallic spray paint
-one sheet of scrap book paper
-number decals

Begin by removing the plastic cover from the clock face and cutitng up toilet paper roles.  I cut them lengthwise to open them up and cut them into ~1/4" strips.  For this project, I did not measure them for exact width because I wanted a variety of depth and texture.

 
 I wanted larger curls, so I hot glued 2 strips together before I made each curel.  I then curled them around a wooden dowel to create the curls and glued them to the sides of the clock.


Keep adding sprails to get the shape you want.

Added layers around the clock for  more depth.

  For the lager curels I used strips cut from the cereal box.  Now it is ready for painting, I removed the clock hands and the paper that covered the face of the clock.


It took nearly 2 can of pain for this project.  My finished clock is 3.5' in diameter and has tons of nooks and crannies that needed covered.

Note if you take it outside to pain and it is hot the hot glue could melt and you you might be reglue it back together.

Next use the scrap book paper for the backing of the clock.  Used decal numbers.  Replace the hands.



 

Iris Folding Book Cover

I found this on http://suzyssitcom.com/2012/08/creating-colorful-bookcovers-with-astrobrights-paper.html

With school time just around the corner, I came up with a school craft project that incorporates brightly colored paper.  I created fun book covers using the technique called Iris Folding.


Materials:
-Colored paper
-Paper bag
-Glue stick
-Glue
-Scissors


Begin by cutting you bag open, then cut off bottom flap, so that you ahve one large sheet of paper.  With printed side up, place book on top and fold down the top and bottom edges of the paper to match the top and bottom of the book.


Fold one end of the paper and slide the front cover of the book into the open end until the edge of the cover meets the fold.  Close the book and crease the other end of the paper where the edge of the back cover meets it.  Slide the back cover into the open fold.  Now the book cover is complete.


Print off above image http://suzyssitcom.com/iris-folding-pattern-2  If the link doesn't work the pdf can be downloaded here.


Choose a color and cut a strip of paper that is wider than you numbered section when folded.  Fold it lengthwise and place over the section, starting with section one.  Be sure the fold is towards the center and facing up.  Place folded paper in section 2, tacking the two strips together with a glue stick. Repeat this process around going in numerical order.


Continue around


Final piece is a simple square glued to cover the center.



Flip your project over.


For the heart cover, I drew a heart on the cover of the book that is just a bit smaller that finished Iris Fold.  Unwrap the book and cut the shape of the heart out.


Flue the Iris Fold into the inside of the cover using tacky glue with the front side of the iris fold against the inside of the front cover.

Reverse Iris Folding Card

I found this on http://operationwritehome.org/tutorial-reverse-iris-folding/
Here is my example of this project.

I cut my papers 5.25"x3.75" and pasted it all onto quarter fold size card.  My problem is with the top layer not me large enough.  So if I redo this project I will still cut my papers to 5.25x3.75 but just make my template smaller so it doesn't doesn't quite go out to the edge on my top layers.

Reverse Iris Folding

This is a fun and easier variation of traditional reverse iris folding. The traditional technique uses the same image (photo, print etc) reproduced 5 times, cut, layered and combined. The end result is the original image appearing as a combination of all of the layers. The artist needs to be very precise both in the cutting and layering since even a small variation will make the image appear distorted. This variation of the traditional technique is quite forgiving and easy to master. (And you won’t end up with distorted faces or other disjointed images!)

Materials list:

-5 coordinating or contrasting papers-lighter weight scrapbooking papers work best (you can use heavier papers but you will need to score the folds and your design will be bulkier) cut into 5 1/4’” x 3 ¾” pieces.

-Straight edge or ruler

-Exacto knife

-Cutting mat

-Push pin, awl or other pointed tool -to make guide holes in the pattern and then poke through pattern for marking where to cut on each of your papers

-Scotch tape

-Adhesive for assembly of layers(ATG or other papercrafting roll on adhesive or tacky glue lightly applied. Glue sticks will NOT be strong or long lasting enough)

This is the pattern you will use to mark each of the 5 papers for cutting:

The template can be found here

Print it and attach it to a piece of cardboard that is 5 ¼” x 3 ¾” (same as your 5 sheets of paper)Notice the holes in the 4 corners of each shape, 1-5. Use pushpin or awl and enlarge each hole on the pattern.

After you decide the order of layers for your finished card, place paper for top layer behind your cardboard pattern(printed side facing back of pattern).

Use your pin or awl to poke 4 holes through the pattern and paper on each side of shape #1. The holes are marking your cutting lines for the next step. I use a piece of fun foam with the pattern and paper on top and just poke through both papers into the foam.

Repeat this hole poking in corners of shapes for #2-5 for each of the remaining papers, stacking each behind the pattern separately as you did for #1.

Now you are ready to cut-use the ruler/straight edge and cut 2 diagonal lines from hole to OPPOSITE hole. It’s way easier to see the holes and cut on the back side of your patterned paper. You will have 4 pointy wedges on each piece.

Work on the back side of your papers. Fold back each wedge from back of paper, trim so that the wedge doesn’t extend past the paper edge and tape to secure it down flat. *see note at end of instructions about using heavier papers

Repeat folding, trimming and taping with all 5 papers.

Almost finished! Time to assemble. Stack up all 5 papers in order, #1 on top to #5 on bottom and admire how cool it looks! Glue it all together by applying adhesive along edge and placing next layer on top. Don’t worry if edges aren’t perfectly aligned. You can trim it all after everything is together.

This size of layered papers will fit on a standard A-2 card(like most of our OWH cards) with a small border all around. If you want a center that is a different color than your card base, on the back side of the stack, tape a square of the desired paper. If you have a small sentiment that goes in the center, this is a good method of getting it placed well. Embellish the center as you wish otherwise. Use tacky glue or some other strong adhesive to attach gems, layered punched papers, stickers, brads, buttons etc.

A few ideas for different paper combinations:

Monochromatic colors can look cool if they are of differing textures. Try using embossing folders to add texture.

Try stamping an all over design on sheets of plain paper and using that for several or all of the pieces.

Don’t forget to stop by Lindy’s blog, Paper-Ravin’ to see some more excellent examples of this technique and to see some other really beautiful folded cards! Who is brave enough to give this technique a try? I love that you can use up tons of light weight patterned paper for these cards. I’ll add an InLinkz so that you can all show off your skills… Don’t forget to email me if you have any tutorial requests or submissions!

Quilled Magazine Cross

I found this on http://savedbylovecreations.com/2011/07/recycled-paper-wall-art.html

Do you have stacks of old magazines lying around that you just can’t seem to trash?  Are you a fan of greener living?  Try your hand at making art from what would have been thrown away.  The possibilities are endless.  I have seen everything from picture frames to bowls to jewelry.  I will be showing you how to make the coils, and sharing what I found works best. This cross took me 2-3 hours total.  The duration will depend on how much of a perfectionist you are, and how many coils your project requires.

Supplies:

• Magazines
• Bone folder
• Glossy accents or other quick dry glue
• Scotch tape (optional)
• Mod Podge or other sealant
• A good movie or soundtrack to enjoy while you fold

Instructions

• I like the folded strips making up the coil to be thin, so I cut the page in half lengthwise, then folding each half in half, and cutting along the folds, making 4 strips from each page.  It looks fine if you use a whole page per strip, just chunkier coils.  Start folding by bringing each long edge to the center and creasing to make 2 new edges (see pic).  Using the bone folder to crease makes much neater coils.  NOTE:  THE PICTURES SHOW STRIPS BEING MADE FROM ENTIRE PAGES; I HAVE SINCE LEARNED THAT STRIPS MADE FROM 1/4 OF A PAGE LOOK MUCH BETTER IN THE PROJECTS I SHARE HERE AT SBLC.

• Continue folding the edges to meet in the center until your strip looks like this…

• Now coil your strips. When your come to the end of your strip, place a small dab of glue and hold pressure to secure it in place.  If you want the coil larger, begin another strip where your first one ended.  You can place a thin piece of scotch tape where the two strip ends meet, or just secure each end with glue leaving no gap between them.

To make the cross, I sketched out the design, made the coils I needed, attached them together with Glossy accents (I love using this on paper – dries clear and fast) and outlined the joined coils with strips to form the “+” shape.  You can make anything you imagine.  Google and you will find all kinds of ideas.  I coated the final piece with Mod Podge attached a wire to the back for hanging and that is that.
I would love to see what you create with your lovely coils.  Recruit friends and family to fold pages into strips for you if your project is big.  My nephew and grandmother were pleased to play along!

ADDENDUM:  I just found an wonderful tutorial with some other tips, here, at Craftstylish.  She used a glue gun and mentions you could use glue, but you have to hold the coil in place til the glue grabs.  With Glossy Accents, this happens in 5 seconds.  Easier and less burn potential than glue gun!