I found this on
http://sas-does.blogspot.com/2005/01/long-stitch-binding-tutorial-part-1.html and for part 2
http://sas-does.blogspot.ca/2005/01/long-stitch-binding-tutorial-part-2.html I have combined it all on this webpage
Long-stitch binding tutorial - part 1
In the first part of the tutorial we'll be
preparing pages, assembling signatures, and taking measurements for the
long-stitched notebook.
1. For this project you will need:
·
cutting mat (optional
but useful)
·
ruler
·
x-acto knife or
scissors
·
pencil or pen
·
needle and thread
(used in the second part of the tutorial)
·
awl (could be replaced
by a thick needle, a knitting needle, or any other spiky object)
You will also need:
·
one-side printed paper
(9 sheets)
·
thicker paper for the
notebook cover
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2. Fold each one-side printed paper in 4, so that the printed
side gets "hidden" inside. To do so, first fold the page width
wise (printed part inside) and then fold it once again to make a 4 1/4 x 5 1/2
rectangle.
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3. When all future pages are ready, separate them in groups of 3 (three groups
in total) and put one page inside the other, as shown on the picture.
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4. You should end up with 3 signatures - the notebook block.
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5. It's now time to figure out dimensions for the cover. The height of
the cover equals the heights of the block (5 1/2 inch).
The width of the cover equals (the width of the block) x2 plus the width of the
back of the block (aka the depth of the block). To measure the depth the
block, slightly squeeze signatures together (like on the photo above).
The depth of my block measured a little bit less than 1/32 inch.
The total width of my cover was: 4 1/4 + 4 1/4 + 1/32 = 8 17/32
You can add about 1/8 inch to height measure and width measure - this way your
block will be sitting deeper inside the cover..
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6. Once the cover is measured and cut you will need to score and fold it.
Just measure 4 1/4 of both sides and score lines.
If you added extra 1/8 to your total measure you have to take it in
consideration, when scoring and folding the cover.
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7. When folded, your cover should look similar to the one above.
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8. It's now time to mark and pierce signatures. The height of the
signature needs to be divided into 5 sections. You can choose to have
equal-sized section or, like me, make the top and the bottom section bigger (or
smaller). My 3 middle sections measured 1 inch each and my top and bottom
sections were 1 1/4 inch each.
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9. Using an awl or a thick needle pierce signatures one by one. To ensure
that holes are spaced equally on each signature use one of them as a guide.
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10. The last step is making horizontal slits in the cover. Once again use
one of the signatures as a guide to mark the back of the spine. Make
horizontal slits on the back without crossing the hinge-folds.
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1.Begin with the first signature. Pass the thread through the first hole in the signature (from inside) and through the first slit in the cover leaving a tail inside the signature. You will use it to tighten and secure your stitches.
Wrap the thread around the end of the block and the cover, near the hinge-fold. Bring the thread in and tie two knots.
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2. Pass the thread into the second signature hole and through the cover.
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3. And then from outside into the cover and the third hole and from inside out through the fourth hole and the cover.
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4. Wrap the thread around the end of the booklet and cover.
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5. Pass the thread through the fourth hole of the booklet but not through the cover.
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6. Pass the thread through the fourth hole of the second signature.
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7. Wrap the thread around the end of the block and insert it through the slit in the cover and back into the last hole.
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8. Pass the thread from inside into the third hole and slit and then from outside into the second slit and the hole.
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9. Pass the thread from inside out through the first hole and the cover slit. Wrap the thread around the end of the booklet.
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10. Insert the needle into the first hole of the signature. Do not go through the cover.
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11. Bring the third signature and pass the thread from outside into the first hole. Wrap the thread around the end of the booklet and pass it through the slit in the cover and back into the first hole of the third (last) signature.
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12. Similarly to the first and second signature, pass the thread in and out: into the second hole and slit from inside ..
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13. From outside into the third slit and the third hole ...
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14. Into the forth hole and the slit, around the end of the block and once the thread is inside, tighten all the stitches, tie the thread and your are done!
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15. This is how the notebook looks inside.
Although the description of the process seems long, this type of binding is much easier than the
coptic stitch. I also like that the notebooks made this way lay flat when open. Decorative stitching adds a cute touch to these notebooks.
