Pullover Moss Stitch Sweater

Pullover Moss Stitch Sweater

 I saw this sweater on reddit and tracked down the pattern and want to save it here.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crochet/comments/tj0hnx/comment/i1kixx4/?share_id=B8IA0Aff8TlEftjhfU_iW&utm_content=2&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_source=share&utm_term=1

 

I found the pattern here https://masonjaryarndesigns.com/moss-stitch-crochet-pullover-free-pattern/

 

Any worsted weight yarn will work for this project as long as gauge is maintained, but my finished crochet sweater features Lion Brand Yarn Jeans in Top Stitch. This stylish and relaxed fit crochet sweater features easy construction with minimal shaping and a beautifully textured moss stitch. It will be an instant favorite, and will be that sweater you wear over and over!

 

US Size K/10 6.5 mm crochet hook

Lion Brand Jeans (Weight: 4/Worsted 100% Acrylic –246 yards/225m, 3.5oz/100g)

Top Stitch – 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 7) skeins; approximately 984 (1230, 1230, 1476, 1722, 1722) yards.

 

SIZES:

	FITS ACTUAL BUST*	FRONT & BACK PANEL LENGTH	FRONT & BACK PANEL WIDTH  (shoulder to shoulder)
XS	28-30”	19.5”	17.5”
S	32-34”	20”	19.5”
M	36-38”	20.25”	21”
L	40-42”	20.5”	23”
XL	44-46”	20.75”	25”
2X	48-50”	21”	27”

*This pullover is intended to have a relaxed, comfortable fit with 3 inches of positive ease in the main body of the cardigan and stylish ¾ length sleeves that can be rolled up.  The length of the front and back panels can be adjusted as needed for preferred fit by adding or removing rows. 

*The sweater pictured is a size Medium, and the model is 5’4″ with a 36″ bust.

GAUGE:

16 stitches x 18 rows = 4 inches

Each sc and each ch both count as a separate stitch – 16sts=8sc + 8ch

Please do not skip this step or you will run the risk of your sweater not fitting the way you want.  The moss stitch is a tricky stich when trying to maintain gauge as it tends to pull tighter as you crochet.  Check your width periodically as you work in order to maintain the correct measurements.

TIPS: Work the chain 1 of the moss stitch with a looser tension.

With yarn and size 6.5 mm hook:

• Foundation:  Ch 24
• Row 1:  sc in 4^th ch from hook.  *ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch* Repeat from * to * across ending with sc in the last ch. Turn.  
• Row 2:  ch 2, sc in first ch-sp.  *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-sp – Moss Stitch created.* Repeat from * to * across working last sc in tch.  Turn.

Repeat row 2 until you have a large enough size to measure your stich count and row count easily to compare to the pattern gauge listed above.  Adjust your tension or hook size and re-swatch until you achieve the indicated gauge.   

ABBREVIATIONS: 

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

ch-sp – chain space

sk – skip

st – stitch

tch – turning chain

OVERALL PATTERN NOTES:

• The pullover is worked in two panels for the main body that are then seamed together at the shoulders and sides, and sleeves are worked separately and seamed onto the body at the end.   
• Pattern is written in smallest size with larger sizes following in parentheses as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X). 
• There is no wrong or right side to this sweater, but after your seaming is complete you will work the edging from what has then been created as the inside of your sweater.
• This pullover is created using the Moss Stitch, also known as the Granite Stitch or Linen Stitch.  The Moss Stitch is completed by working single crochets into the chain spaces created in the row below.  
• Turning chain and ch 1 created when working your moss stitches stitch DO count as a stitch.   

 

PANELS (make 2)

Ch 72 (80, 86, 94, 102, 110)

Row 1:  sc in 4^th ch from hook.  *ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across ending with sc in the last ch. Turn.   [70 (78, 84, 92, 100, 108)]

Row 2:  ch 2, sc in first ch-sp.  *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-sp – Moss Stitch created.* Repeat from * to * across working last sc in tch.  Turn. [70 (78, 84, 92, 100, 108)]

Rows 3 – 88 (90, 91, 92, 93, 94):  Repeat 2 until designated row is worked or until panel measures 19.5 (20, 20.25, 20.5, 20.75, 21) inches. 

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. 

 

SLEEVES (make 2 identical)

Sleeves are worked flat in turned rows from the cuff to the shoulders, and then seamed onto the arm holes and down the arm.  Increase rows are indicated as per size and will increase stitch count by four each time. 

INCREASE ROW:   Ch 2, sc in first ch-sp.  Work (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-sp) twice. Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-sp. *Ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-sp.* Repeat from * to * until three ch-sps remain.  Ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-sp.  Work (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-sp) in last two ch-sps, ch 1, sc in tch.  Turn.    

Ch 42 (46, 50, 54, 58, 62)

Row 1:  sc in 4^th ch from hook.  *ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * across ending with sc in the last ch. Turn. [40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60)]

Row 2:  ch 2, sc in first ch-sp.  *ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-sp – Moss Stitch created.* Repeat from * to * across until sc is made in tch.  Turn.    [40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60)]

Rows 3 – 55 (57, 59, 61, 63, 65):  Repeat Row 2, working increase rows as indicated per size. 

 

Example – for size XS, you will work the increase row for rows 14, 27 and 40 and should have the indicated number of stitches at the end of each row.  

 

INCREASE ROWS FOR SIZES

Size	Inc Row #	Inc Stitch Count
XS	14 27 40	44 48 52
S	15 29 43	48 52 56
M	16 31 46	52 56 60
L	17 32 47	56 60 64
XL	18 33 48	60 64 68
2X	19 34 49	64 68 72

Fasten off sleeves, leaving a yarn tail for seaming that is long enough to seam around the armholes and down the inside of the arm. 

 

SEAMING THE PIECES TOGETHER

Main Sweater Body

Lay the front and back panels together and line them up.  Using stitch markers, pin across the top of the shoulders and down the sides of the sweater.  The size of the neck hole can be customized as preferred by placing stitch markers where the seaming will end prior to fastening off.

 

Leave approximately 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9) inches for each armhole. 

 

Using the yarn tail, seam the shoulders with your preferred seaming method and fasten off once you are happy with the size of the neck opening.

 

Attach yarn at the armpit and seam down the sides of the sweater; repeat on the right side and fasten off yarn. 

• Now that you have seamed the panels together, the panels facing you will now be the inside of your sweater. 

Attaching sleeves to the body

Lay the sleeves flat and fold over; position sleeves so that increase rounds/seaming will be on the underside of the arm.  Using stitch markers, pin the length of the arm and pin the largest part of the sleeve to the arm hole.  With the long yarn tail, seam up the length of the arm, attach the sleeve at the armpit and seam around the arm hole.  Continue seaming down the sleeve from the armpit to the cuff and fasten off.  Repeat for the other sleeve.

• Before turning your sweater out, I recommend placing a few stitch markers along some part of the panels to designate that this is now the inside of your sweater.  This is important as you will crochet the edging as follows with the inside of the sweater facing you.

 

DECORATIVE EDGING

Edging is added to the bottom of the sweater panels, the cuffs and the collar.  You will be joining yarn at the specified seams and working single crochet and slip stitches into the bottom row (the first rows) that were created for the panels and sleeves and along the collar.  The total stitch count is not important here, as long as you are working your single crochets evenly to achieve the embroidery look. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bottom edging

Join yarn at the bottom of the sweater at one of the side seams. 

Ch 1, sl st in first st from the ch.  *Insert hook in stitch space three rows down, pull up a long loop, yarn over and pull through.  Sl st in next stitch.*  Repeat from * to * evenly across the bottom edge of both panels, join to ch 1 with sl st.  Fasten off. 

 

Cuff edging

Join yarn at the cuff where seamed together. 

Ch 1, sl st in first st from the ch.  *Insert hook in stitch space three rows down, pull up a long loop, yarn over and pull through.  Sl st in next stitch.*  Repeat from * to * evenly across the edge of the cuff, join to ch 1 with sl st. 

Repeat for other sleeve, fasten off. 

 

Collar edging

Join yarn at shoulder where seamed. 

Ch 1, sl st in first st from the ch.  *Insert hook in stitch space three rows down, pull up a long loop, yarn over and pull through.  Sl st in next stitch.*  Repeat from * to * evenly across the collar, working a long sc stitch where the collar seams meet, join to ch 1 with sl st.  Fasten off. 

 

Close up of the sweater edging – You can see the space in the third row down where you will insert your hook to make your long loop single crochet stitch, and then the slip stitch is created in the next stitch.

Yarn Over TShirt Rug

 I want to save this..  https://moralefiber.blog/2016/04/03/2298/comment-page-1/#comment-445

T-Shirt Rug Tutorial

APRIL 3, 2016 / REGINAALEXISWEISS

This was the fourth crocheted t-shirt rug from this series that I posted a while ago, in which I allude to the method but don’t provide much of an explanation.

Here’s how to make T-shirt yarn via Endlessly Inspired.

I got the idea of using yarn to crochet around the t-shirt strips from Pinterest (of course) but felt that I could make things a little more interesting by experimenting with stitch designs..…. which was fun, but sometimes one desires a more mindless exercise. So I experimented with ducking the t-shirt yarn strip in front of and behind the stitch, and came up with a design that makes the strip form  eye-pleasing rings of bobbles or nubs, or in the case of my most recent rug, stones on sand.

Crocheting around the T-shirt yarn in this way is soooooo much easier, neater-looking, and more economical  than trying the crochet the t-shirt yarn itself. I always make my own t-shirt yarn, so it’s also better because it’s easy to switch from one ball to another with this method.

Crocheted T-shirt Rug How-To

UPDATE 3/2020: I now have a video on my YouTube Channel that demonstrates this technique.

You need:
A large amount of cotton or acrylic yarn (A skein of Caron One Pound usually gets the job done nicely, with some to spare)

T-shirt Yarn (I use home-made, but store bought works too!)

A 6.00 mm hook

Start by making a magic ring. 6 sc into the ring tightly. Sc into the first sc of the first round to begin a joinless, in-the-round crochet circle. *

*I will not be giving instructions for increases in the round because I’m making the assumption that the crocheter already knows how to handle this – just work them in the same proportion as you usually would or decide how many you need to keep it flat as you go. 

In the second round of stitching, hold the t-shirt yarn flat against the last row and start to stitch the single crochet over the tail of this yarn until you have worked 3-5 stitches or have anchored it securely. Once you have secured the t-shirt yarn, you will begin weaving it in and out of the sc stitches.

This isn’t a picture of the second round, but you can see where I have begun the new strip by anchoring it within the sc stitching before I start weaving it in and out.

Continuing to work in the round (and adding increases where necessary), hold the t-shirt yarn to the back of your work and work a sc in the next stitch. Keep in mind that the t-shirt yarn should be completely to the back of the work so that the yarn is not held within the stitch at all.

*Tightening the sc after working it by holding the loop steady and pulling on your working yarn makes the rug nice and firm and helps the t-shirt yarn bobbles look neat.

Before you work the next stitch, bring the t-shirt yarn completely to the front of the work, so that you are working your next sc behind the t-shirt strand.

Work the next sc, tighten it down if necessary, then return the t-shirt strand to the back of the work – this will wrap the t-shirt yarn around the stitch you just made, creating a little t-shirt bobble.

With the t-shirt yarn at the back, make another sc in the next stitch.

Continue alternating holding the t-shirt yarn in front or back, until you get near the end of the strand or decide to change colors. Return the t-shirt yarn to the top of your work and work a series of several sc stitches OVER the yarn, so that it is trapped in the stitch again. Do this until the end is reached, then begin the next strand the same way.

I like to vary the proportion of bobbles in the front (i.e – bring the t-shirt yarn to the front every two stitches, every three stitches, etc) to provide visual interest, or alternate rounds of bobbles with rounds of t-shirt yarn carried along inside openwork stitches.

T-Shirt Yarn Rug Video Demo:

UPDATE 3/2020 & 9/2020: I did eventually make a video guide/tutorial for how I make these rugs! It covers the basic strategies of how I start the rugs in Part 1 (following the basic increases formula to produce a flat circle and then adding in the yarn and crocheting around it) and then how to finish a unique rug in Part 2 (goes over the tricks I use to freeform the outer rings of the rug to create decorative stitching).

TShirt Rug Crochet Tutorial https://youtu.be/mVjq-cZbbqY

TShirt RUg Tororial Part 2 https://youtu.be/bAydCORj4LY

Market Tote

I found this through an email from favecrafts.com  Patten by Darn Good Yarn

Links is https://www.favecrafts.com/Crochet-Bags/Crochet-Market-Tote-Pattern-from-Darn-Good-Yarn

Went to ravelry and found the pattern listed https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/market-tote-crochet-pattern

Made with 4 skeins of DGY reclaimed chiffon ribbon

Yarn Weight: (5) Bulky/Chunky (12-15 sts for 4") ~320yds
Hook: K/10.5 or 6.5mm
Finished Size: 14" x 7" x 6"

CH

  

Chain

SL Knot Slip Knot

SC

  

Single Crochet

ST(S)

  

Stitch(es)

BLDC Back Loop Double Crochet

DC Double Crochet

CSDC Chainless Starting Double Crochet

FO Fasten Off

RND Round

SL ST Slip Stitch

Instructions - Base

Notes:

1. The sample was created with BLDC Back Loop Double Crochet. This pattern can also be made with DC.
2. This sample uses Chainless Starting Double Crochet to start many of its rows, but you can start each row with a traditional CH3.
3. This project doesn't have to be perfect as far as stitch count goes. So, if your count is a bit off, just compensate when making the 10 stitch gap so that the handles are centered.
4. When using the Chainless Starting Double Crochet, the beginning stitch will sometimes migrate to the left as you work. This will change the number of stitches worked before the 10 stitch gap. For either of these instances, flatten your work and find the center front. Count out five stitches from the center in both directions. These are your 10 gap stitches.
5. Blocking is not necessary.

1. Start with an SL Knot. base CH 16.
2. RND 1: CH 1. 2 SC in the next ST. SC in each CH for the next 14 STS. 3 SC in the next CH. Rotate to work on opposite side of the base chain. SC in each of the next 15 STS. SL ST in the CH ST at the beginning of this round. (34 STS).
3. RND 2: CH 1. *SC in next ST. 2 SC in the next ST. SC in each of the next 14 STS. 2SC in next ST.* Repeat between *'s one time. SL ST in the CH ST at the beginning of this round. (38 STS).
4. RND 3: CH 1. *SC in next ST. 2 SC in next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 14 STS. 2 SC in each of the next 2 STS.* Repeat between *'s one time. SL ST in the CH ST at the beginning of this round. (46 STS).
5. RND 4: CH 1. *SC in next ST. 2 SC in next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 18 STS. 2 SC in each of the next 2 STS.* Repeat between *'s one time. SL ST in the CH ST at the beginning of this round. (54 STS).
6. RND 5: CH 1. * SC in next ST. 2 SC in next ST. SC in the next ST. 2 SC in the next ST. SC in each of the next 20 STS. 2 SC in the next ST. SC in the next ST. 2 SC in the next ST.* Repeat between *'s one time. SL ST in the CH ST at the beginning of this round. (62 STS).
7. RND 6: CH1. * SC in next ST. 2 SC in next ST. SC in the next ST. 2 SC in the next ST. SC in each of the next 20 STS. 2 SC in the next ST. SC in the next ST. 2 SC in the next ST. * Repeat between *'s one time. SL ST in the CH ST at the beginning of this round. (62 STS).
8. RND 6: CH 1. *SC in next SC. 2 SC in next ST. SC in next ST. 2 SC in next ST. SC in each of next 2 STS. 2 SC in next ST. SC in each of next 18 STS. 2 SC in next ST. SC in each of next 2 STS. 2 SC in next ST. SC in next ST. 2 SC in next ST.* Repeat between *'s one time. SL ST in the CH at the beginning of this round. (74 STS).

Instructions - Sides

1. RND 7-9: 1 Chainless Starting Double Crochet OR CH 3 (counts as first DC). DC in next ST. DC in each of the next STS. SL ST in top of Starting Double Crochet, OR in the third CH of beginning CH 3. (74 STS). Change to next color.
2. RND 10-12: 1 Chainless Starting DC OR CH 3 (counts as first DC). DC in next ST. DC in each of the next STS. SL ST in top of Starting Double Crochet, OR in the third CH of beginning CH 3. (74 STS). Change to next color.
3. RND 13-15: 1 Chainless Starting DC OR CH 3 (counts as first DC). DC in next ST. DC in each ST around. SL ST in both loops of top of Starting Double Crochet, OR in the third CH of beginning CH 3. (74 STS). Change to next color.
4. RND 16-17: 1 Chainless Starting DC OR CH 3 (counts as first DC). DC in next ST. DC in each ST around. SL ST in both loops of top of Starting Double Crochet OR in the third CH of beginning CH 3. (74 STS).
5. RND 18: 1 Chainless Starting DC OR CH 3 (counts as first DC). DC in each of next 13 STS. CH 10, skip next 10 STS (gap made). DC in each of next 27 STS. CH 10. Skip next 10 STS. DC in each of next 13 STS. SL ST in both loops of top of Starting Double Crochet, OR in the third CH of beginning CH 3.
6. RND 19: CH 1. SC in each of next 13 STS. SC 10 STS over and around the 10 chain stitches. SC in each of next 27 STS. SC 10 STS over and around the 10 chain stitches. SC in each of next 13 STS. SL ST in both loops of top of Starting DC, OR in the third CH of beginning CH 3.
7. FO and weave in ends.

Rectangle Basket

https://makemydaycreative.com/2014/10/18/rectangular-diamond-trellis-basket/

Beanie

I wanted to make a thin wool beanie for A to wear under a bicycle helmet, so I didn't want it very thick and I thought sock yarn would be great since it has wool in it.

I used info from these 2 websites.
https://sheepishlysharing.com/2014/04/02/tutorial-crochet-sock-yarn-hat/
http://www.slugsontherefrigerator.com/blog/how-to-design-a-hat
http://www.slugsontherefrigerator.com/blog/how-to-design-your-own-hat-pt-2

Sizing Chart (in inches)

Age	Head Size	Hat Size	Hat Ht.	Flat Dia.
0-6mon	13-15	12-14	4.5-5	4
6-12mon	16-19	14-18	5.5	4.5
1-3yrs	18-21	17-20	6.5	5.5
4+yrs	20-22	19-21	7.5	6
Women	22	20	8.5	6.5
Men	23	21	9.5	6.75

From Sheepishlysharing  https://youtu.be/psdlqOqclpI

Rnd 1: 12 sc in a loop but don’t join!

Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc. (24 stitches) Put a marker in the first stitch of this round!

Rnd 3: 1 sc in ea sc around. (24 stitches)

Rnd 4: 1 sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next st. Repeat around. (36 stitches)

Rnd 5: 1 sc in ea sc around. (36 stitches)

Rnd 6: 1 sc in the next 2 stitches; 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat. (48 stitches)

Rnd 7: 1 sc in ea sc around. (48 stitches)

Rnd 8: 1 sc in the next 3 stitches; 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat. (60 stitches)

Rnd 9: 1 sc in ea sc around. (60 stitches)

Rnd 10: 1 sc in the next 4 stitches; 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat. (72 stitches)

Rnd 11: 1 sc in ea sc around. (72 stitches)

• Continue sequential increases until the crown diameter measures the size you need. (Refer to a chart for sizing.)

• Once proper crown size is achieved, single crochet in each stitch until the desired length is achieved. (Refer to a chart for sizing.)

Note: I stopped single crocheting about 1.5” from desired length and added a Front Post/Back Post Double Crochet Ribbing for the bottom of the hat.